Riding the Edge: Water Sports & Closeouts

Riding the Wave: Recognizing Closeout Conditions in Water Sports

The ocean is a powerful force, capable of delivering exhilarating thrills and crushing danger with equal ease. For water sports enthusiasts, understanding its moods is crucial for safe and enjoyable experiences. One particularly hazardous phenomenon to be aware of is "closeout," a condition that can quickly turn playful waves into menacing walls of water.

What Exactly is a Closeout?

A closeout occurs when waves break too rapidly and intensely, closing in on themselves and creating a chaotic, swirling mass of water. Imagine a rolling wave suddenly collapsing inward upon itself, churning up a frothy wall that can sweep you off your feet and hold you underwater. This happens when the energy of incoming swells is channeled into a confined space, often due to factors like:

• Shallow Water: As waves approach shallower depths, their energy concentrates, leading to steeper and more powerful breaks.
• Currents: Strong currents can push waves together, amplifying their impact and increasing the likelihood of a closeout.
• Wind Direction: Offshore winds can create steeper, more unstable waves, while onshore winds tend to push water towards the shore, further contributing to closeout conditions.

Spotting the Warning Signs:

Recognizing closeout is vital for avoiding injury. Here are some key indicators:

• Whitewater Everywhere: Closeouts produce a large amount of whitewater, indicating that the wave has broken violently and can be very dangerous.
• Breaking Waves Collapsing Inwards: Look for waves breaking and collapsing inward rather than rolling smoothly towards the shore. This signifies a loss of energy control and imminent closeout potential.
• Steeply Breaking Walls: A sudden increase in the steepness of breaking waves is a clear sign that they are becoming more powerful and prone to closing out.
• Turbulent Water Surface: Closeouts create significant turbulence, with churning and frothy water, making it difficult to navigate safely.

Staying Safe When Closeouts Occur:

If you find yourself in closeout conditions, remember these safety tips:

• Get Out of the Water: The safest course of action is to exit the water immediately if you see signs of a closeout developing.
• Swim with Caution: If caught in whitewater, try to swim parallel to the shore, not directly against the current. Keep your head above water and conserve energy.
• Hold Your Breath: During a closeout, be prepared to hold your breath as you may get submerged.

Respect the Ocean's Power:

Water sports offer incredible experiences, but they demand respect for the ocean's raw power. Recognizing closeout conditions is essential for enjoying these activities safely. Stay vigilant, heed the warnings, and always prioritize safety over thrill-seeking. The ocean rewards those who approach it with caution and understanding.The power of a closeout can be truly humbling. Experienced surfers recount tales of being tossed around like rag dolls, the force of the water nearly crushing them.

Take the story of Big Wave Surfer Garrett McNamara. In 2017, while attempting to ride a monstrous wave in Nazaré, Portugal – renowned for its colossal swells – he found himself battling a closeout. The wave, towering over 100 feet, unexpectedly collapsed upon itself just as McNamara was riding it, engulfing him in a swirling vortex of water. He described the feeling as being "smashed" and “thrown around like a toy.” Thankfully, his expertise and specialized equipment allowed him to navigate the chaos and eventually resurface.

But for amateur surfers or those unfamiliar with the ocean's moods, a closeout can be much more dangerous. In 2019, a group of teenagers were caught in a closeout at a popular beach in California. The unsuspecting group, eager to ride the waves, didn't recognize the warning signs – the whitewater churning, the rapid wave collapse. They were swept off their feet and tossed around violently before being able to reach safety.

This incident highlights the importance of education and awareness. While the allure of riding a big wave is undeniable, it’s crucial to understand the risks involved. Local surf communities often have experienced surfers who can provide valuable insights into specific breaks and potential closeout conditions. Lifeguards are also trained to identify dangerous situations and warn swimmers and surfers accordingly.

Remember, respecting the ocean's power means being prepared for its unpredictable nature. By recognizing the warning signs of a closeout, following safety guidelines, and learning from experienced individuals, you can minimize the risks and maximize your enjoyment of water sports.